Spring Mountain Climbing Guide
compiled for the Whitman College Outdoor Program
version 6.10 (9/08/08)
By Kevin Pogue
Disclaimer
(by using this guide you are assumed to have read the disclaimer; please read it!)
photo of 1st talus field area with climbers on Fab Slab, Blackout, and Blue Suede Shoes
photo of the 2nd talus field area including climbs between "Betaflash" and "Blister in the Sun" (courtesy of Chago Rodriguez).
Includes route information supplied by Steve Brown, Jim Cunningham, Mark Hauter, and Kevin Hibbert
Info
The rock climbing at Spring Mountain is on a 0.25 mile long, 100 ft. high cliff of andesite, a volcanic rock similar to basalt but lighter in color. The rock on the lower half of the cliff is very dense and smooth while the upper half is much more porous and knobby due to a profusion of tiny gas pockets called vesicles. The rock faces south-southeast so most routes receive sun from early in the morning until mid-afternoon. In some areas, the lower parts of the cliff are shaded by large trees. The cliff is at an elevation of 4600 feet so the temperature is usually at least 15 degrees cooler than Walla Walla, although it doesn't feel that way when climbing in direct sunlight. Climbing is usually possible from mid April to late October. Mosquitos, horse flies, and deer flies are sometimes a nuisance from late spring through mid summer. In some years, aggressive yellowjackets are intolerable in late summer. There are good campsites in the meadows along the Whitman Route Overlook road. There is a bathroom and a signed spring (must be treated) near the Whitman route overlook parking area (one mile past Spring Mountain), but otherwise no water is available. Spring Mountain is in the Walla Walla Ranger District of the Umatilla National Forest. Near-real-time images from ODOT cameras on I-84 that are about 8 miles west of Spring Mountain and 400 ft. lower) can be had by clicking here. Click on any of three small camera icons below the word "Pendleton". I find it useful to see what the weather and snowpack is like. If you want the latest weather observations from Meacham (10 miles west of Spring Mtn. and 700 ft. lower) click here.
The Routes
The route descriptions are in the order that you encounter them from the trail (west to east). To view the location of the routes relative to the cliff and each other click here for a profile diagram (requires Acrobat Reader). The abbreviation "RD" refers to route developer. The two letters after the equal sign are the initials of the person most responsible for the creation of the route. A key follows this paragraph. Almost every route (sport and trad) at Spring Mountain required extensive moss, lichen, and loose rock removal. In most but not all cases, the RD is also the person responsible for the FA. Some long-term projects were almost certainly first climbed by someone who did not know they were making a first ascent, and some FA's were "gifted" by the RD to other folks. The RD information has been included so that you can use it to help you find or avoid routes based on that person's style. If you're looking for the best sport routes for beginners, the most fun 5.10 crack routes, etc., go to the recommended routes page. Please note that some of the routes require a 60 meter rope in order to lower a climber to the ground from the anchors!
Route Developers
MB = Mark Bergman
BB = Bob Branscomb
SB = Steve Brown
PC = Pete Cassidy
JC = Jim Cunningham
TD = Terry Dietrich
JD = Jesse Dwyer
JG = Jay Goodwin
MH = Mark Hauter
KH = Kevin Hibbert
JJ = Josh Jones
BL = Brent Lansing
KP = Kevin Pogue
JS = John Spatz
VS = Vern Stiefel
U = unknown
Gome Boy (sport, 5.11a, RD=KH) - First bolted route. Very short steep face. Stick clip first bolt. Crux is getting the 2nd clip. Arete on right is off-route. 3 bolts, rap hangers.
Beginner's Route (TR, 5.4, RD=U) - Low-angle slab around the corner to the right of Gome Boy. It is easy to set a top-rope by walking around to the left. (top-rope, rap hangers)
Jack and Jill (sport, 5.10, RD=KH) - Face climb right of beginners route. Difficulty varies between 10a (right side start) and 10c (left side start). 4 bolts, rap hangers.
A Few Tense Moments (sport, 5.10-5.11, RD=KP) - Start at left edge of small roof 20 ft. right of Jack and Jill. A tricky boulder-problem start leads to thin face climbing above. The final moves surmount an exciting blocky overhang. The route is moderate 5.10 if the right arete is utilized for the middle portion (above the third bolt). A few more "tense moments" can be had by eschewing the arete and climbing straight up the thin crimpy face (5.11). This route is unusual for Spring Mountain in that it is easy to set up for a top-rope from above (without leading). 9 bolts, quick-clip chains.
Passing Lane (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) - Face climb 10 ft. right of A Few Tense Moments. Climb steep smooth face using arete on right, pull through an overhang, move slightly left and then scamper up a blunt arete and around a big block. Shares anchors with A Few Tense Moments and is therefore also easy to set up for a top-rope from above, although you might want a directional quick-draw lower down. 8 bolts, quick-clip chains.
Mountain Ears Route (trad, 5.6, RD=KP) - Left-facing dihedral with crack just right of Passing Lane. Scramble up ledges, crank over a bulge (crux) and then cruise a ledgy face with good protection to a tunnel-like exit beneath a large chockstone. Good route for beginning traditional lead climber. No fixed top anchors.
Unnamed (sport, 5.12a, RD=SB?) - This line heads straight up the face above and right of Mountain Ears Route. 12 bolts, rap hangers.
Welcome to Spring Mountain (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) - Face climb just past small overhang. 8 bolts, chains. Direct start (sport, 5.11a, RD=KH) - Begins under the overhang below and left of the regular route and climbs past three bolts. Stick clip the first bolt.
The Diving Board (trad, 5.9, RD=JC) - The crack just to the right of Welcome to Spring Mountain. First pitch - Climb the crack and face to the belay for Welcome to Spring Mountain. Second pitch - Climb the steep off-width to the top of the cliff (a 4.5" camming device is useful).
Spider (sport, 5.11c, RD=SB) - Starts on slabby face right of The Diving Board, and continues up steep headwall above. 8 bolts, rap hangers.
Fish for the Future (trad, 5.8, RD=BB) - Wide crack right of Spider. Rarely climbed, somewhat dirty. Shares chain anchor with Moving to Manhatten.
Moving to Manhatten (trad, 5.10b, RD=JC) - Somewhat narrower crack right of Fish for the Future. Pull a strenuous overhanging block and then undercling your way up and left (sketchy feet) to chain anchors below another overhang.
Nurse Ratchet (sport, 5.10c, RD=KP) - Slab to overhanging rounded arete. Step left around corner after pulling the overhang. When leading avoid clipping hanger on ledge above overhang (it's for directing rope for top-roping). Take a #3 friend to supplement bolts above overhang (optional). 12 bolts, chains.
Mirage a' Trois (sport, 5.10a, RD=KP) - Climb the steep, apparently well-featured slab just past the wide dirty crack right of Nurse Ratchet. Most of those nice looking holds vanish into thin air on close approach. 11 bolts, rap hangers.
Face the Facts (sport, 5.9, RD=BB) - Climbs a gentler section of the same slab as Mirage a' Trois starting about 8 feet farther right. Crux is getting to the first clip. Stick-clip suggested. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
Face the Crook (trad, 5.7, RD=KP) - Stem and jam the crack in the dihedral between Face the Facts and By Hook or by Crook. After 40 ft., traverse right to rap hangers.
By Hook or by Crook (sport, 5.10d, RD=MH) - Gently overhanging face right of Face the Crook. 4 bolts, rap hangers.
Unnamed (sport, 5.11d/12a, RD=SB?) - Steep face right of By Hook or by Crook. 5 bolts, shuts.
Exterminailer (sport, 5.7, RD=JS) - Face climb on slab above large roof 15 ft right of By Hook or by Crook. Above the third bolt it is possible to traverse left to double cold shut anchors for "unnamed" or to anchors for By Hook or by Crook. Exterminailer continues up and right above roof past 4 more clips to rap hangers near the top. 7 bolts, rap hangers.
Bat Crack (trad, 5.6, RD=BB) - Obvious crack in corner right of Exterminailer.
Feat Petite (sport, 5.7, RD=KP) - Short slabby face a few feet right of Bat Crack. 4 bolts, shuts.
Captain Winkie (sport, 5.8R, RD=JS) - Runout mossy and slabby face right of Feat Petite. 3 bolts, rap hangers.
Shafted (trad, 5.9, RD=MB) - Start in left-leaning crack in ledgy slab just right of Captain Winkie. Angle back to the right above a wide mossy section of the crack to reach a steep finger crack. Climb this crack (crux) to the anchors for Captain Winkie.
Skinny Hippie (sport, 5.10a, RD=SB) - Slab to steep face 10 ft. right of Captain Winkie. 8 bolts, rap hangers.
Dog Show (sport, 5.12a, RD=SB) - Steep slab to overhanging face just right of Skinny Hippie. 9 bolts, rap hangers.
Eaten Alive (sport, 5.10b, RD=KP) - Takes left side of overhanging arete to slab 4 ft. right of Dog Show. 6 bolts, chains.
Clavical Crack (trad, 5.9, RD=TD) - Crack in corner right of Eaten Alive. Dirty. Finishes at Eaten Alive anchors.
Triple Threat (sport, 5.10b, RD=KP) - Starts on steep crimpy face 10 ft right of Eaten Alive. Stick clipping first bolt is a good idea. Route continues straight up alternating between slabs and gently overhanging faces. 12 bolts, rap hangers.
Cruisin' to a Bruisin' (trad, 5.9, RD=KP) - Climb the crack just right of Triple Threat. Ends on ledge with double cold shuts.
Crimp or Wimp (sport, 5.10c, RD=KP) - Climb face 5 ft. right of Triple Threat. Crux at third bolt. 8 bolts, rap hangers.
Flaked Out (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Begins on slab 5 ft. right of Crimp or Wimp. Climb slab with steep thin section to flake. Undercling flake left to jam crack.10 bolts, chains. Variation "Flaky Wimp" (5.10c) - Clip the first few bolts on Crimp or Wimp, then move slightly right to join Flaked Out.
Sfinks Crack (trad, 5.9, RD=JC) - Crack 5 ft. right of Flaked Out. Exit left 60 ft. up to double cold shuts.
Mojo Risin' (sport, 5.11a, RD=KP) - Steep face right of Sfinks Crack. 10 bolts, chains.
Aloha Direct (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) Bolted face climb 4 ft. right of Mojo Risin'. 6 bolts, cold shuts.
Hawaiian Slab (sport, 5.5, RD=KP) Bolted slab just right of Aloha Direct (with which it shares an anchor). 5 bolts, cold shuts.
Split Decision (sport, 5.10c/d, RD=KP) Dihedral above anchors for Hawaiian Slab. Creative stemming and power crimping permits a traverse left under overhang to anchors above a good ledge. 3 bolts, rap hangers.
Moufot's Woof (trad, 5.10a, RD=JC) From the anchors for Hawaiian Slab, jam the crack on the right wall of the dihedral to below a roof. Pull through the roof using the magnificent hand crack provided. The route ends at chains 10' above the roof.
Funny Trumpets Arete (sport, 5.9R, RD=BB) - Slabby arete 20 ft. right of Hawaiian Slab. 7 bolts, 2 fixed pins.
Noble Slabbage (sport, 5.10c, RD=KP) - Starts on small ledge 5 ft. right of Funny Trumpets Arete. Climb straight up the middle of the slab, veering right to gain the ledge above the 4th bolt. Holds right of bolt line (below 4th bolt) are off-route. 4 bolts, rap hangers.
Shagadelic Groove (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Shares first 4 bolts with Noble Slabbage. The next three climbs all start at the head of the steep eroding slope right of Noble Slabbage. This is the one on the left. Climb the slab staying just left of the wide crack. From the Noble Slabbage anchor ledge, step up and right onto a steep face with prominent flake. Continue up past 8 bolts to anchors near the top of the cliff. 12 bolts, rap hangers.
Deep Impact (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - This is the middle route at the head of the steep eroding slope. Climb a ledgy face to a steep pull past a giant chockstone. Stem and/or chimney up a corner with two wide cracks clipping bolts on the face to the left. Make a delicate traverse move onto the face to the left of the corner and up to a good ledge. Finish with an airy step out to the right to reach the anchors. 13 bolts, rap hangers.
Mantle with Care (sport, 5.11a, RD=BL) - This is the right route at the head of the steep eroding slope. Climb a blunt arete with a strenuous mantle to an overhang surmounted with another difficult mantle. The slab above is equally challenging. 8 bolts, chains.
Breathe the Air (sport, 5.10b, RD=SB) - Climbs left side of blunt arete at entrance to first talus field. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
Fab Slab (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Start at short overhang at left side of first talus field. Crank through the devious overhang (crux) and continue up slab to short steep headwall. Stick clip first bolt. 9 bolts, rap hangers.
Red (mixed, 5.9, RD=JJ) - Climb reachy crimpy face right of Fab Slab past 3 bolts to crack. Climb crack straight up through bulge to Fab Slab anchors. 3 bolts, gear, rap hangers.
Triple Arthrodesis (trad, 5.9, RD=TD) - Crack in corner right of Fab Slab. Climb ledgy face left of crack in dihedral to rap hangers (5.5). Stop here or crank through a steep lieback and fist crack (5.9) to ledge with rap hangers. Variation: (Dirty Dancing, trad, 5.7) - Traverse left at the lower anchors to upper crack of Red and climb through a short steep bulge to reach the anchors for Fab Slab.
Blackout (sport, 5.11b, Rd=KH) - Steep face just right of Triple Arthrodesis. 7 bolts, rap hangers.
Snapped it Off (sport, 5.10c, RD=SB) - Face climb 6 ft. right of Blackout. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
The Pod of God (trad, 5.8, RD=JC) - Climb the crack right of Snapped it Off to anchors for Rally Race.
Rally Race (sport, 5.10b, RD=SB) - Just right of the Pod of God climb steep face to prominent flake. Stick clip first bolt. 6 bolts, rap hangers .
TBA (mixed, 5.10c/d, RD=MH) - Starts at head of talus field at small overhang. Climbs past 4 bolts to crack (pro to 1"). Continues above rap hangers past three bolts to top (upper section is dirty and loose - not recommended). Variation: Climb the first 25 ft. of Geophysical then step left to join TBA at the last bolt. This lowers the rating to 5.10b.
Geophysical (mixed, 5.6/5.10a, RD=KP) Climbs crack system right of TBA to the top of the cliff. First 35 ft. is fun, easy-to-protect crack climbing suitable for a beginning traditional leader. Quick clip anchors at the top of this section allow a speedy descent. Above the first anchors, the climbing is steeper and more physical with two strenuous wide-crack cruxes. There are single bolts at each of these difficult-to-protect spots. There are two bolts on the face near the top of the cliff that protect moves toward the top chains which are 10 ft. to the right of where the crack intersects the rim (need 60 meter rope to top-rope, i.e. don't lower from top anchors with a 50 meter rope!). 4 bolts, intermediate and top anchors.
Initiation (sport,11a, RD=KH) Climb slabs right of Geophysical to steep arete below large roof. 6 bolts, rap hangers.
Wanderer (trad, 5.5, RD=BB) - Follow ledges right of Initiation to rap hangers 25 ft. up. Good beginner or kid's route.
Snack Time for Kea (mixed, 5.10c, RD=JC) - Clip the anchors for Wanderer and continue straight up into a dihedral with fun liebacking (5.9). Clip the rap hangers and come down from underneath the big roof or make a sketchy traverse right past two bolts to reach another crack/dihedral system. Follow a tips crack straight up (soft rock and small gear) and then move right underneath another bulge (crux) staying to the right of a wider crack. Beware of rope drag after the roof. You'll need a 60 meter rope to top-rope. 2 bolts, chains.
Blue Suede Shoes (sport, 5.7, RD=KP) - Starts at large flake near big ponderosa pine 20 ft. right of TBA. Takes line just to the right of Wanderer. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
Geophagy (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) - Climbs slabby face to steep finish 20 ft. right of Blue Suede Shoes. 4 bolts, chains.
A Strong Urge to Fly (boulder problem, V2) This problem climbs the short steep dihedral on the northeast side of the huge flat rock where everyone hangs out in the 1st talus field. The landing is bad so either don't fall or have good spotters.
Epiphany (sport, 5.10b, RD=KP) - Starts on boulder 10 ft. right of big ponderosa pine and climbs ledgy slab angling right up to and over large roof. Don't clip the last bolt until you've cranked through the overhang or ignore it entirely. 6 bolts, rap hangers.
Trix (trad, 5.8, RD=BB) - Left slanting hand/finger crack 8 ft. right of Epiphany. Ends on same ledge system as Epiphany. There are no anchors but it is possible to traverse right to the Epiphany anchors.
Something Else (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Climb steep face 20 ft. right of Trix using sharp arete on right. Pull into dihedral and stem up to a good ledge with chains 45 ft. up. Stop here or scramble up and left on some easy ground to more fun climbing on an exposed slab. Climb ends at chains near the top of the cliff. 15 bolts, chains.
Cornered (sport/mixed, 5.8, RD=KP) - Stem up the arete/dihedral 10 ' right of Something Else. After 45 ft. and 6 bolts (5.7), stop at chains on a big ledge or continue straight up over big blocks past two more bolts to a fun crack system in a dihedral (gear, 1-4"). Ends at chains just below the top. 8 bolts, chains.
Dawg Daze (trad, 5.10b, RD=JC) - Excellent steep crack climb 15 ft. right of Cornered. Lower off from chains where crack deteriorates 20 ft. below the top of the cliff.
Get a Grip (sport, 5.11d, RD=KH ) - Red arete just right of Dawg Daze. 7 bolts, chains.
Steppin' Out (sport, 5.11a, RD=MH) - Face to crack in corner then back to face and left slanting crack. 10' right of Get a Grip. 7 bolts, chains.
Van Golden Brown (trad, 5.10d, RD=SB) - Crack system right of Steppin' Out. Bail out at rap hangers after 60' as upper part of crack has not been cleaned.
On My Face (trad, 5.10b, RD=VS) - Climb the first part of Van Golden Brown until it is possible to exit right to a thin crack about 20 ft. up. Follow the thin crack straight up (somewhat difficult to protect) to the ledge with anchors for Lorraine.
Lorraine (sport, 510d, RD=KP) - Climb steep discontinuous crack with pockets just right of Van Golden Brown. Crux is at last bolt. 7 bolts, rap hangers.
Chicken Pox (sport, 5.10d, RD=MH) - Face climb 5 ft. right of Lorraine. Features 3 10d cruxes. Seldom climbed, upper part is dirty. 8 bolts, chains.
Mark's Route (sport, 5.11d, RD=MH) - Face to the right of Chicken Pox. 7 bolts, chains.
Ticked (sport, 5.11a, RD=KP) - Starts in shallow flared dihedral 20 ft. right of Chicken Pox. Pull through short steep bulge to sloping ledge with anchors. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
Inversion (mixed, 5.10a, RD=KP) - Start at two-inch crack 15 ft. right of Ticked. When crack system widens and splits 20 ft. up, take the left fork. Climb past one bolt to a ledge and follow the crack system to the top. Five bolts can be clipped (some placed for adjacent routes) between the ledge and the top, but be sure to take supplemental pro. 6 bolts, rap hangers.
Tick Spray (sport, 5.11d, RD=JD) - Climbs face past bolts just before large block with overhanging arete. 12 bolts, chains.
Smackdown (sport, 5.12a, RD=JJ) - Climbs overhanging arete on left side of block 15 ft. right of Ticked. 4 bolts, chains.
Frogger (sport, 5.11c, RD=JJ) - Starts on top of block that hosts previous route and climbs through bulge with small shallow dihedral. Start is most easily reached via Chunky Monkey. 7 bolts, chains.
Chunky Monkey (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) - Lieback, arm-bar, and stem up steep offwidth in dihedral just left of Chubby Hubby. At the big ledge, climb up onto the big boulder and make a balancy step across to the right. Continue up interesting featured slabs to the summit of the "Pinnacle of the Prolitariet People's Party Ambition". Stay right of the bolt line for the last 5 clips to avoid potentially loose rock. This is one of the longer routes at Spring Mountain and requires a 60 meter rope to top-rope. 16 bolts, chains.
Chubby Hubby (sport, 5.12a, RD=KH) - Follows left side of prominent steep arete 10 ft. right of Chunkey Monkey. 9 bolts, chains.
Freddy's Dead (sport, 5.11b or 12a, RD=MH) - Follows right side of steep arete around the corner from Chubby Hubby. Horizontal pockets lead to knobs and a small roof. Finish via crack on right = 11b, via face on left =12a. 8 bolts, chains.
Hang 'em Higher or Throwin' Fire (sport, 5.11b, RD=KH) - Clip first two bolts of Freddy's Dead and head up and right on steep thin face. Can also be climbed by clipping first two bolts on Doc Holiday then branching off to the left. bolts, chains.
Block Party (trad, 5.10b, RD=JC) Climb through the big scary, detached block (it's solid) and move out onto the finger crack in the face right of Freddy's Dead. Ends at anchors for Freddy's.
Doc Holiday (sport, 5.10b, RD=KP) - Ascend steep face on outside of buttress right of Freddy's Dead to ledge below blunt arete. Climb blunt arete via devious balance and friction to double cold shuts at ledge with dead trees. End here or continue up knobby face past 5 more bolts to top of pinnacle ("Extended Holiday"). Need 60 meter rope to toprope from highest anchors. Unclip from cold shut anchor before continuing to top to lessen rope drag.15 bolts, cold shuts, chains.
unnamed (sport 5.12b, RD=JJ?) - Climbs right side of steep arete past big chimney 30' right of Doc Holiday.
Cassidy's Crack (trad, 5.8, RD=PC) - Wide crack leading to flaring slot with large chockstone just right of unnamed 12b. Bring big pro! There are belay chains on the ledge at the top of the crack.
Spiral Stairs (sport, 5.6, RD=KP) - Stem up outside edge of chimney system directly above Cassidy's Crack. 4 bolts, chains.
Arthritis (trad, 5.11a, RD=SB) - Obvious steep 40 ft. finger crack with chain anchors.
Longtime Coming (trad, 5.10a, RD=MH) - Steep thin crack between Arthritis and Hospital Corner. Climb largely on face, protecting in crack. chain anchors.
Drama Queen (sport, 5.11b, RD=SB) - Face between Longtime Coming and Hospital Corner. This one may seem more like a 12 until you figure out the sequence! bolts, chains.
Hospital Corner (trad, 5.10d, RD=SB) - Awesome steming and jamming up steep corner, TCU protects crux. Ends after 60 ft. at chain anchors left of crack.
Puppets Without Strings (sport, 5.12a, RD=SB) - steep face immediatly right of Hospital Corner. 11 bolts, chains.
Nut Up (mixed, 5.10a, RD=SB) - Thin crack system in face right of Puppets Without Strings. When cracks end midway up face, move right and follow bolts to anchors for Johnny Nowhere. 4 bolts, gear to 2", chains.
Johnny Nowhere (5.10a, RD=JS) - Left side of arete 10 ft. right of Nut Up. 10 bolts, chains.
Summertime Arete (sport, 5.8) - Right side of arete 5 ft. right of Johnny Nowhere. Finish at rap hangers on ledge half-way up (RD=BB) or keep climbing to reach another set of rap hangers after 5 more bolts ("Endless Summer", RD=KP). 10 bolts, rap hangers.
Gidrah (sport, 5.9-5.10b, RD=KP) - Just like Godzilla's foe by the same name, this beast has three "heads". Begin in the dihedral right of Summertime Arete. Stick clip first bolt and climb the face (5.10a) or use the crack (5.7). After the 6th or 7th bolt there are three ways to finish. For the middle or right head, down climb a bit and unclip the last bolt on the "torso" after you clip the first bolt on the "neck" to prevent rope drag. Left head (5.10b, 11 bolts): Continue straight up on a slab on the left side of the crack/chimney system and crimp up a steep rounded arete to a ledge with cold shuts. Middle head (5.9, 15 bolts): From friction slab above ledge, step right across a wide dirt-filled crack and climb a steep but juggy face to chain anchors at the top of the cliff. Right head: (5.9, 15 bolts) From ledge with chains for Summertime Arete step right across crack to steep knobby face. Climb straight up to chains at the top of the cliff.
M.T.P. (mixed, 5.10b/c, RD=JC) - Climb the crack in the corner right of Gidrah via strenuous fist jams and surmount the obvious flake and roof on the right using the huge holds provided. Continue straight up to the top of the cliff clipping 4 bolts on the steep knobby face of the upper section of The Final Shred. 4 bolts, chains.
New Route (sport, 5.11?, RD=?) - Climbs steep face just right of M.T.P.
The Final Shred (sport, 5.10d, RD=MH) - On outside face of butress 6 ft. right of M.T.P. Climb steep thin face past six clips to rap hangers on ledge (5.10d). Quit here or move left and continue past 6 more bolts to anchors near the top of the cliff (5.10b). 12 bolts, intermediate and top anchors.
Junior Birdman (sport, 5.11a, RD=SB) - Starts at anchor for The Final Shred. Continue straight up. 4 bolts, chains.
Mr. Flexible (sport, 5.11b, RD=SB) - Face 4 ft. right and around corner from The Final Shred. Crack on right and arete on left are off-route for 11b rating. 6 bolts, chains.
Chopper (trad, 5.8, RD=BB) - Dihedral with crack right of Mr. Flexible. Shares chains with Mr. Flexible.
Etched in Stone (sport, 5.10a, RD=KP) - Steep face with pockets behind the big dead tree right of Chopper. Clip the chains and come down or mantle over the lip to reach the anchors for Oot. 5 bolts, chains
Oot and Aboot (sport, 5.10a, RD=KP) - Prominent arete 5 feet right of Chopper. Five bolts lead to rap hangers at obvious ledge (Oot). Continue past 10 more bolts to chains near the top of the cliff (Aboot). 15 bolts, chains
Stemulation (trad, 5.7, RD=KP) - Crack in corner right of Oot and Aboot. After 50 feet, the crack deteriorates, so step right to double cold shut anchors.
Digital Delight (trad, 5.10a, RD=JC) - Steep thin crack right of Stemulation. Shares double cold shut anchor with Stemulation.
Johnny's Got a Gun (sport, 5.10a, RD=JS, MH) - Face climb 10 ft right of Stemulation. Lower section climbs past 7 bolts to anchors and is considerably harder if you avoid the arete on the right side. Continue through roof above first belay past 3 more bolts to chains. 10 bolts, chains
Blockhead (trad, 5.9, RD=JC) - Climb the crack between Johnny's Got a Gun and Betaflash. Ends at chains for Betaflash.
Betaflash (sport, 5.10b, RD=KP) - Climbs the arete just right of Blockhead. Traverse in from boulders on the right to clip the first bolt. Start from the traverse or scramble back down and start at the base of the cliff to add more fun climbing. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
Crack Atowa (mixed, 5.8, RD=KP) - First crack right of Betaflash. Jam the delightful handcrack, surmount the large flake (it's solid), and continue past some quick-clip anchors to a delightful bolt-protected chimney. Feel free to bail out at the first anchors if you are intimidated by the chimney. 6 bolts, chains
Marley's Route (trad, 5.9, RD=JC) - Climb the crack in the corner 4 ft. right of Crack Atowa. Ends below roof at rap hangers.
Indian Summer (trad, 5.9, RD=JC) - Crack climb 10 ft. right of Marley's Route.
Phoups (trad, 5.10b, RD=JC) - Finger crack in shallow right facing dihedral at head of 2nd talus field. Lieback up a nice flake above dihedral and then traverse right past an awkward bulge to chain anchors 50 ft. up. #3.5 friend protects the traverse.
Phlogistomat (sport, 5.10d, RD=KP) Climbs face with small overhang 10 ft. right of Phoups. Shares chains with Phoups. 8 bolts, rap hangers
Eighteen Wheeler (trad, 5.8, RD=JC) Climb crack in right-facing corner 10 ft. right of Phlogistomat. Ends at rap hangers 45 ft. up.
Mud Crack (trad, 12a, RD=JD) Jam (if you can) the very thin crack to the right of Eighteen Wheeler. Shares rap hangers with Eighteen Wheeler.
Gran Delusion (trad, 5.10c, RD=JC) Jam and lieback steep thin crack to the "Womb of Doom" below large chockstones. Stem out, around, and over chockstones to bouldery ledge with rap anchor belay.
Oregon Yosemite (sport, 5.12d, RD=JD) Climbs steep corner on right side of chimney system right of Gran Delusion. 6 bolts, chains.
Blister in the Sun (sport, 5.12d, RD=JG) - Steep arete with lime green lichen near center of second talus field. Crux is on a blank slab 2 bolts below the anchors. 10 bolts, chains.
Project (sport, 5.11d, RD=KH?) - steep face right of Blister in the Sun.
Final Exam (sport, 5.12c, RD=JD) - steep face just left of large crack system that hosts The Last Dance. bolts, chains.
The Last Dance (sport, 5.10b, RD=KP) - Start at base of offwidth crack 20 ft. right of Blister in the Sun. Stem and chimney up the wide crack system, step right across the chimney to a ledge system then scamper up a beautiful exposed arete, moving left briefly two bolts from the top. Need a 60 m rope to lower from top anchors. 18 bolts, chains
Twister (sport, 5.10c, RD=SB) - Steep face climb 50 ft. right of Blister in the Sun. 5 bolts, chains. note: one of the anchor bolts is bad right now (9/22/02) so if you climb this route make a tough move 5 ft. up and right to the anchors for Eekwinocks.
Eekwinocks (trad, 5.10c, RD=JC) - Crack in face between Twister and obvious chimney. Ends at chains that are 5 ft. above and right of chains for Twister.
Phish Food (sport, 5.11c, RD=KH) - Very steep face just right of large chimney. Shares anchors with Plumber Boy. 5 bolts, chains.
Plumber Boy (sport, 5.10b, RD=SB) - Face climb on south corner of large detached buttress just around the corner from Phish Food. 6 bolts, chains.
M and M's (mixed, 5.10a, RD=MH) - Starts at large crack just right of Plumber Boy and takes right-leaning finger crack across steep face, intersecting Spring Cling about 20' up. Finish at anchors for Spring Cling. 3 bolts, chains.
Spring Cling (sport, 5.10a, RD=KP) - Thin steep face climbing on outside of large detached buttress. Can be finished directly (5.10b) via two bolts through overhang. 6 bolts, chains.
Spring Fever (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - First pitch (70') - Start at east end of large detached buttress (with wide chimney behind it) and climb moderate-angled blunt arete to the top of the buttress. 11 bolts, chains. Second pitch (40') - Climb a steep knobby arete to anchor near the cliff edge. 5 bolts, cold shuts.
Maid in the Shade (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Scramble to the back of the large chimney/alcove right of Spring Fever and look for a hanger on the left wall. Chimney up about 15 ft., cross a large chockstone, and climb a short face to a large ledge. Make a delicate traverse left (crux) to an exposed arete. Climb straight up the arete to an exciting mantle near the top. This is a good climb for a hot day. 15 bolts, rap hangers.
Learning to Fly (sport, 5.10d, RD=MH) - Steep face climb 10 ft. right of Spring Fever, just past chimney containing large rotten logs. 9 bolts, chains.
Lively Up Yourself (trad, 5.8, RD=KP) - The crack right of Learning to Fly. Ends at double cold shuts below dirty roof with trees.
Special Delivery (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Face climb right of Lively Up Yourself. Wander left and back right, then pull through a small overhang. 9 bolts, chains.
Blue-Tailed Skink (sport, 5.10c, RD=KP) - Short face climb 10 ft. right of Special Delivery. Steep climbing on big holds leads to thin crux on slabbier section above. 5 bolts, rap hangers.
Iron Cross (sport, 5.9, RD=KP) - Start near crack 10 ft. right of Blue-tailed Skink. Cross crack between 1st and 2nd bolts and climb face just left of crack to large ledge with Blue-Tailed Skink anchors. Scramble up more ledges, clipping two bolts, until large handholds make possible an exciting move right onto a slabby face. Climb this fun face to a corner with large blocks below an overhang. A series of exciting "iron cross" moves left and out around the overhang establishes you on a final short face just below the anchors. This is a long, fun climb with lots of bolts (use a 60 m rope and take 20 quick draws!). chains.
Face Lift (sport, 5.11b, RD=MH) - Steep face 10 ft. right of Iron Cross. The 5.11b grade applies only to a line straight up the bolts. Most folks that lead this route make extensive use of a corner and crack system on the left, which lowers the grade to about 5.10c. 7 bolts, chains.
Clean Sweep (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) - This route, the longest at Spring Mountain, starts behind a tree 15 ft. right of Face Lift. Traverse up and left on ramp-like ledges to a steep slot. Stem through the slot and up a ledgy dihedral. Stop at chains at a big ledge above the dihedral or work left above the Face Lift anchors and climb the outside of a blocky pillar past 6 more bolts to the top of the cliff. This route can NOT be top-roped with a 50 m rope! Do not lower anyone from the top anchors unless you have a 60 meter rope!! 15 bolts, chains.
Worth the Walk (sport, 5.8, RD=KP) - The last route on the cliff. This one lives up to its name if you enjoy steep rock with big holds. Start at the same place as Clean Sweep and climb straight up a system of fractures and blocks (they're solid) to a ledge. A few tricky slab moves get you to the top of the route. 8 bolts, chains.
If you have questions or comments, feel free to email me.